Buyer guide

Varsity jacket materials and cost: wool, leather vs vinyl sleeves

The materials in a varsity jacket (wool body, leather or vinyl sleeves, rib knit, chenille) and how each one changes the cost.

Illustrative leather product or process concept

What are varsity jackets made of?

A traditional varsity jacket uses five materials: a wool-blend body, leather or vinyl (PU) sleeves, rib-knit collar, cuffs and waistband, a quilted or satin lining, and chenille and felt letters. Lower-cost jackets replace wool with polyester or fleece.

Letterman jacket body fabric

  • Melton wool: a dense, felted wool (usually blended with a synthetic) that is warm, wind-resistant and holds chenille well. The traditional choice.
  • Fleece and polyester: lighter and lower cost; common for school orders and blanks.
  • Cotton twill and satin: used for baseball and team jackets.
  • Denim: for denim varsity jackets.

Vinyl vs leather sleeves on a letterman jacket

Leather sleevesVinyl (PU) sleeves
Look and feelNatural grain, softens with wearSmooth, uniform, slightly stiffer
DurabilityLasts many years; ages wellCan crack and peel over time
CareCondition occasionally; specialist cleaningWipe clean
CostHigherLower
Best forBrands, premium and keepsake jacketsBudget school and team orders

Cowhide sleeves are firm and hard-wearing; lambskin is softer and more premium. See varsity jackets with leather sleeves.

Trims, lining and hardware

Rib knit (usually acrylic or a wool blend) is knitted in your stripe pattern. Linings range from plain polyester to quilted satin. Snaps can be colour-matched or branded.

How much does a varsity jacket cost?

Prices vary widely because every jacket is a combination of choices. The main cost drivers are:

  1. Body fabric: wool costs more than polyester or fleece.
  2. Sleeves: leather costs more than PU; lambskin costs more than cowhide.
  3. Decoration: each chenille letter, patch and embroidery adds material and labour.
  4. Lining and trims: quilted linings and custom stripe knits add cost.
  5. Quantity and colourways: larger runs in fewer colours lower the unit cost.

For a manufacturing quote, see what determines unit price or request a quotation with your design and quantity.

Why are letterman jackets so expensive?

A genuine letterman jacket is made from two expensive materials (wool and leather) that are cut and sewn separately, plus custom-knitted trims and chenille that is produced and applied largely by hand. Each school or team order is also made in relatively small, personalised quantities, which raises the unit cost.

Have a design or a reference product?

Send it with your quantities and destination. We will come back with questions, a quotation and a sampling plan.